the big easy.......

If you look at a geographical map of New Orleans, and study it's history, you would come to conclude that it's a mixed bag of feelings on whether it should have been considered a port city so long ago. Although it is nicely placed between the Mississippi River and Lake Pontchartrain, it mostly sits on the floodbanks of the river and is located below sea level. Although there were levees built around the crescent shaped city, it still does little to protect them from random and devastating storms... as witnessed by Katrina and Rita.

Back in 1984, I picked New Orleans as a destination for my honeymoon. While other people considered me crazy and unromantic for such a strange choice, I plodded on with my plans, knowing that it was a city full of magic and imagination.... and I wasn't wrong. It was all that and more. Rich in culture and diverse in colorful characters, New Orleans held a charm I couldn't resist taking in.

I had made a mental list of "must see and do's", and was pleasantly surprised that we managed to do everything, but one. That was alright though, because it was made up by doing things I hadn't even imagined we'd do at all. This very same year, the World' s Fair was hosted in New Orleans, and being a fair lover, it was one of the first attractions on the list. It wasn't as big as the New York Worlds Fair of 1965, or Man and His World in Montreal in 1968, but it didn't matter..... we were in New Orleans. There were still a many great pavilions to tour, wonderful food to taste, and cultures to observe. Both of us being history lovers, we were in our element.

You can't go to New Orleans without taking in Bourbon Street and the French Quarter. You might as well not make the trip at all if they are not on the list. During the day, the area held it's usual hustle and bustle of tourists, but at night it came alive. The sounds of jazz that exploded out of each bistro and restaurant, the minstrels playing in the streets, and the smells of Cajun cooking permeated the night air and made you feel special for just being there.

We managed to sip coffee and nibble on biegnets at the Cafe' DuMonde, taste candy made at Aunt Sally's in the heart of the Vous Carre, and tour Jackson Square which had a wonderful museum abundant in New Orleans history. Without even knowing it, a small Mardi Gras procession was held one day that same week as they had just re-opened Jax Brewery. Even though this was in October, the area was alive with the spirit of celebration, and we had managed to find ourselves right in the middle of it. We would witness a commercial being taped in Jackson Square that starred impersonator, Rich Little, and a small known actor named Jim Carrey. I found it pretty cool that we stumbled across this with no plan in mind, and came away with Mardi Gras beads, and plenty of good memories.

We would also tour the spooky graveyards of the city. It was fascinating to see these old relics of gravestones that withstood the years of floodings, as well as black magic that surrounded them. It was not a trip I would do at night, as I am a bit superstitious, but I had no problem with them in the daylight. Being from the north, I was a bit taken aback by the above-ground graves, and further awed by a funeral procession that took place while we were there. It resembles everything you see in the movies. A jazz player really does send these wonderful people into the great beyond. What a nice way to go, huh?

New Orleans also has a marvelous zoo. I had a chance to see real flamingos for the first time, and was impressed by the natural settings the animals were placed in. We took a few hours to walk around and see everything, then headed over to Charles Street to ride the famous trolley that goes from one end to the other of this beautiful boulevard. The houses that line Charles Street were spectacular, gorgeous, and everything I would love to live in if I ever had the money.

Being in the food service, and familiar with Paul Prudhommes famous restaurants, we tried every night to get through the doors to have dinner. If we were willing to wait in line that spread down a few blocks, it would have been possible. Those plans scratched, we managed to find some great restaurants on Bourbon Street, and took in the flavor there. One night we even managed to get a balcony table overlooking all the fun below us. The minstrels managed to play to the balconies, and we were entertained throughout dinner.

You can't imagine my heartache watching the Gulf Coast pummeled by the storms of Katrina and Rita. I had traveled this route from Atlanta on my way to New Orleans. The houses that lined Route 10 were stately, glamorous, and well tended. I kept remarking how I would love to live in one of "those". My husband looked at me and said, "Not me. If a bad hurricane were to hit, these would be the first things to go". Sadly, how right he was.

Seeing the waters of the Gulf Coast made me fall in love with the area immediately. I am an ocean lover, and always have been. Give me the sea and surf anyday.... I don't care where. It soothes my soul, and replenishes my focus on life. Being part New England girl, I have sea water in my veins. I had a hard time watching the pictures of the devastation, knowing that I had seen the area in it's former glory. The ruined homes, shattered lives, and loss of life made my heart bleed for these people.

There has been much controversy if New Orleans should sponsor it's annual Mardi Gras this year. They are going ahead, even though much of the city still sits in ruins. It's been six months since the storms havoced the area. Their police force has been diminished by a few hundred due to lay-offs, retirements, firings and relocators. They are anticipating some problems, but are praying for a party without any major incidents. Many businesses were wiped out, and the word is not in on how much the city can take in for tourists. The one's who reside there have their own mixed feelings about the event. Some are concerned about the safety factor, while others just want to return to normal a bit, thinking the annual celebrations will help to do just that.

The way I see it.... Even though I know that it will take years to rid the debree from all the damage, and much mishandling has been reported of the money going for aid and help, the city deserves the respect of the tourists who will travel there to take in any festivities. May they treat it like sacred ground, spend lots of money to boost the economy a bit, and leave it in better shape then they find it. May they remember that although this is all fun, it's only a temporary bandaid for the feelings of rooted culture. To further their problems with disorderly conduct is slapping them in the face. Everyone needs to remember that right now, it ain't so easy for The Big Easy.