Saturday, February 18, 2006

the big easy.......

If you look at a geographical map of New Orleans, and study it's history, you would come to conclude that it's a mixed bag of feelings on whether it should have been considered a port city so long ago. Although it is nicely placed between the Mississippi River and Lake Pontchartrain, it mostly sits on the floodbanks of the river and is located below sea level. Although there were levees built around the crescent shaped city, it still does little to protect them from random and devastating storms... as witnessed by Katrina and Rita.

Back in 1984, I picked New Orleans as a destination for my honeymoon. While other people considered me crazy and unromantic for such a strange choice, I plodded on with my plans, knowing that it was a city full of magic and imagination.... and I wasn't wrong. It was all that and more. Rich in culture and diverse in colorful characters, New Orleans held a charm I couldn't resist taking in.

I had made a mental list of "must see and do's", and was pleasantly surprised that we managed to do everything, but one. That was alright though, because it was made up by doing things I hadn't even imagined we'd do at all. This very same year, the World' s Fair was hosted in New Orleans, and being a fair lover, it was one of the first attractions on the list. It wasn't as big as the New York Worlds Fair of 1965, or Man and His World in Montreal in 1968, but it didn't matter..... we were in New Orleans. There were still a many great pavilions to tour, wonderful food to taste, and cultures to observe. Both of us being history lovers, we were in our element.

You can't go to New Orleans without taking in Bourbon Street and the French Quarter. You might as well not make the trip at all if they are not on the list. During the day, the area held it's usual hustle and bustle of tourists, but at night it came alive. The sounds of jazz that exploded out of each bistro and restaurant, the minstrels playing in the streets, and the smells of Cajun cooking permeated the night air and made you feel special for just being there.

We managed to sip coffee and nibble on biegnets at the Cafe' DuMonde, taste candy made at Aunt Sally's in the heart of the Vous Carre, and tour Jackson Square which had a wonderful museum abundant in New Orleans history. Without even knowing it, a small Mardi Gras procession was held one day that same week as they had just re-opened Jax Brewery. Even though this was in October, the area was alive with the spirit of celebration, and we had managed to find ourselves right in the middle of it. We would witness a commercial being taped in Jackson Square that starred impersonator, Rich Little, and a small known actor named Jim Carrey. I found it pretty cool that we stumbled across this with no plan in mind, and came away with Mardi Gras beads, and plenty of good memories.

We would also tour the spooky graveyards of the city. It was fascinating to see these old relics of gravestones that withstood the years of floodings, as well as black magic that surrounded them. It was not a trip I would do at night, as I am a bit superstitious, but I had no problem with them in the daylight. Being from the north, I was a bit taken aback by the above-ground graves, and further awed by a funeral procession that took place while we were there. It resembles everything you see in the movies. A jazz player really does send these wonderful people into the great beyond. What a nice way to go, huh?

New Orleans also has a marvelous zoo. I had a chance to see real flamingos for the first time, and was impressed by the natural settings the animals were placed in. We took a few hours to walk around and see everything, then headed over to Charles Street to ride the famous trolley that goes from one end to the other of this beautiful boulevard. The houses that line Charles Street were spectacular, gorgeous, and everything I would love to live in if I ever had the money.

Being in the food service, and familiar with Paul Prudhommes famous restaurants, we tried every night to get through the doors to have dinner. If we were willing to wait in line that spread down a few blocks, it would have been possible. Those plans scratched, we managed to find some great restaurants on Bourbon Street, and took in the flavor there. One night we even managed to get a balcony table overlooking all the fun below us. The minstrels managed to play to the balconies, and we were entertained throughout dinner.

You can't imagine my heartache watching the Gulf Coast pummeled by the storms of Katrina and Rita. I had traveled this route from Atlanta on my way to New Orleans. The houses that lined Route 10 were stately, glamorous, and well tended. I kept remarking how I would love to live in one of "those". My husband looked at me and said, "Not me. If a bad hurricane were to hit, these would be the first things to go". Sadly, how right he was.

Seeing the waters of the Gulf Coast made me fall in love with the area immediately. I am an ocean lover, and always have been. Give me the sea and surf anyday.... I don't care where. It soothes my soul, and replenishes my focus on life. Being part New England girl, I have sea water in my veins. I had a hard time watching the pictures of the devastation, knowing that I had seen the area in it's former glory. The ruined homes, shattered lives, and loss of life made my heart bleed for these people.

There has been much controversy if New Orleans should sponsor it's annual Mardi Gras this year. They are going ahead, even though much of the city still sits in ruins. It's been six months since the storms havoced the area. Their police force has been diminished by a few hundred due to lay-offs, retirements, firings and relocators. They are anticipating some problems, but are praying for a party without any major incidents. Many businesses were wiped out, and the word is not in on how much the city can take in for tourists. The one's who reside there have their own mixed feelings about the event. Some are concerned about the safety factor, while others just want to return to normal a bit, thinking the annual celebrations will help to do just that.

The way I see it.... Even though I know that it will take years to rid the debree from all the damage, and much mishandling has been reported of the money going for aid and help, the city deserves the respect of the tourists who will travel there to take in any festivities. May they treat it like sacred ground, spend lots of money to boost the economy a bit, and leave it in better shape then they find it. May they remember that although this is all fun, it's only a temporary bandaid for the feelings of rooted culture. To further their problems with disorderly conduct is slapping them in the face. Everyone needs to remember that right now, it ain't so easy for The Big Easy.

11 Comments:

Blogger Michael K. Althouse said...

Ya know, I almost never agree with our president, but he did say one thing I can embrace whole-heartedly: "I can not imagine an America without New Orleans." So at least he got one thing right!

I have been traveling to New Orleans and Bay St. Louis since I was a kid. My mom grew up there and my aunt, uncle, cousins and grandfather still live there. Fortunately, Katrina didn't take everything they had. It sure disrupted their lives, but in the big picture, they were pretty fortunate.

The long term effects are, apparently, going to be just that - long term. I don't think that under the best of circumstances Katrina would have been anything less than a monumental disaster. It's just that the government has made it so much worse than it nedded to be.

Having said all that, I know how resiliant the people of New Orleans are. They are tough, independant and they will survive. I think that celebrating Madris Gras is just the shot in the arm that city needs. The nay-sayers need to step aside and let the people of New Orleans do what they do best - celebrate.

~Mike

4:27 PM  
Blogger Snaggle Tooth said...

I think the city needs it's moral n economic booster.

It's such a shame all the relocated former residents don't get to participate, n it'll only be a poor imitation of the Mardi Gras of the past. A mere echo of the past culture. Enjoying life is never a waste of funds.
Those folks have been through enough to certainly deserve it.

I've never had the pleasure of that trip. My mother loved the place, n MB also honeymooned there 3 years ago.

Just before that happened, in August I believe (mentioned previously somewhere in your commentz) is when I bought the "previously-viewed" DVD of the film "The Big Easy" with Dennis Quiad for $5. Then the city went under the month following, n my DVD player died too, so now I can't watch the film to see the city sights the way it was before. I just thought that was such a timing coincidence as an unplanned purchase.
I haven't been to visit Clayton's blog recently, "Operation Eden" to see how the folkz from the 10th Ward church-camp are doin, hope they didn't get blasted with this cold air, n wonder if they ever got in trailers. You just reminded me to go check...

7:26 PM  
Blogger Snaggle Tooth said...

Well the last post over there is from 12/24/06, n the blog may now be considered orphaned. Clayton does leave a url for a new grassroots organization helping rebuild homes in the Pearlington area.
http://www.waltoncountyhabitat.org/

7:43 PM  
Blogger Ellen said...

mike~ I agree with you wholeheartedly! New Orleans needs this, and I am glad they decided to go ahead with it. I was reading the sunday paper, and they had a picture of the festivities, along with comments by the people who came to be part of it. All said the same thing as you: It's just the shot in the arm they needed.
New Orleans is a city of celebrations and, as you say, resiliant folks. I just hope that everything goes well, and no major problems break out.

Fascinating that your family is from the area. Did they lose their homes and have to be relocated at all?
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snaggle~ Yeah, it was a pretty city, no doubt. The architecture alone was fascinating. I had a hard time passing by some of the homes without stopping to gawk. So much ironwork.... and alley gardens to peek at. To think that much of this is destroyed is heart-breaking. We did witness some poorer neighborhoods, but every city has those.

The Big Easy is also one of my favorite films. I had the chance to see it on TV not to long ago, and felt that it was sad to know the city would take many years to come back to it's former glory.

I haven't been over to OP Eden in awhile, and wondered how Clayton's family was doing as well. Thanks for the update!

7:23 AM  
Blogger Scott said...

Very glad to see the city of New Orleans hosting their Mardi Gras, really shows their spirit. I have questions however, about the rebuilding plans. Just seems a little crazy to try and fight nature so much. I would imagine that most people would disagree with me, but perhaps it would be a good idea to rebuild on higher ground and give the old part back to the Ocean! I don't know though...

Scott

11:07 AM  
Blogger Saur♥Kraut said...

You are very fortunate. I always wanted to visit, and put it off until it was too late...

Another great post!

11:40 AM  
Blogger Ellen said...

scott~ Yeah, you do have a point. Rebuilding seems almost fruitless, but that's typical of America. We love our cities by rivers and lakes, as well as oceans. You'd think that the people who were wiped out by the hurricanes that slammed Florida would have moved away, but no, they love the landscape.
New Orleans is steeped in history and the people there are pretty resiliant. They have already survived two past hurricanes that did much damage, although not on the same level that Katrina did. Funny thing though, the two past hurricanes weakened the systems that were in place until Katrina came along and demolished it. They weren't able to figure that all out until Katrina hit.
Much of the city is built on landfills, which further weakened land, and protective barriers that kept the city "safe".
Another thing... a good deal of the people who fled the area are still relocated (we have them here in Atlanta), and most do not want to go back. Partly because of the economy, partly because they do not want to find themselves back in the same position again. The hurricane season starts in a couple of months.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

saurkraut~ It only took 21 years to feel vindicated that I made the right choice to go there. I am glad I was able to see the city and area... as always in the back of my mind I felt it could be wiped out pretty easily. I'm sure if they put their heads together, New Orleans will once again thrive. After all, it is a port city.

As always~ thanks for the kind words!

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ej~ I like your description of New Orleans: "unmissable energy".
How very true to a T. I noticed it when I was on Bourbon Street.
Fortunately, Bourbon got the least of the "worst" damage.

I only hope that they come up with some real plans to take care of the city and it's occupants. Right now they are wasting money with no real blueprints to put it all back together. I have my own ideas, but that would take another post.

5:20 PM  
Blogger Michael K. Althouse said...

None lost their homes, but all had to relocate until order and power was restored. My 90 year-old grandfather had to stay with my parents for a couple of months. That was interesting. I don't know how "back to normal" things are for them, but I know one thing for sure: It's Madris Gras and they're partying!

5:40 PM  
Blogger Ellen said...

mike~ WOOHOO for Mardi Gras!
To this day, I still have my beads, as well as a face mask I bought on Bourbon St. Someday, I'd like to go back during the real season, even though I am not a drinker. It would be fun just to see all the floats and painted faces. I'd also like to go back to the zoo to see how they made out.

Glad to hear your folks didn't lose their homes. I'll bet you were worried about them the whole time though.

6:05 PM  
Blogger Neo said...

Ellen - Awesome post!

I was reading yesterday that Louisanna's governor is working on a rebuilding plan. Her plan hinges on the amount of match money the government put in. Sadly one of the things I'd read was that for those homes that are completely gone, they will only get 60% of what the home was worth prior to the storms. (And that was only if you had x amount of insurance.

Hmmmm, more of that funny money games.

Glad you had fun there, I've never been to New Orleans before, but it always seemed spooky to me.

Peace & Hugs,

- Neo

1:50 PM  
Blogger Ellen said...

neo~ I've been following the New Orleans story, as it really did touch me deeply. Yesterday Oprah (yeah, I know...) had a special with Anderson Cooper and Lisa Ling who had gone down to the area within the last few weeks. It was amazing to see that nothing had really been done. A lot of the debree still hasn't been cleaned up, even though there are bulldozers in the area to do so. This includes Mississippi and Louisiana!

People are still living in tents, which will be taken down in a few weeks, and others are living in less that substandard conditions.

The trailers are sinking in the mud, unoccupied, while they try to assess where they can put them in order to be hooked up with the necessary utilities. It's a damn mess, and there still seems to be no one in charge.
It breaks my heart!

Thanks for the kind words, sweetie!

4:00 PM  

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