Sunday, March 05, 2006
























gateway to the Cape......

Stretching like a well muscled arm off the lower eastern coast of Massachusetts is the beautiful landscape of Cape Cod. It's location is exposed to the elements of Atlantic Ocean temperaments; and it has seen it's share hurricanes, blizzards, and worse of all, the tourists who claim the sandy shores with "cape" and stilt houses. Because much of it was unspoiled beauty, many New Englanders favored it for the sandy beaches, and because they could escape the thickly settled areas of the Northeast and feel like they had gone to the "country seashore". The only problem is the tourists never stopped coming and the land became prime real estate.

During the Pleistocene Epoch, the great ice age that began over one and a half million years ago, the Cape was fully engrossed under ice. When the last continental ice sheets melted away, the water returned to the ocean basin and the sea level rose. Within time, the rising sea began to drown out the land left behind by the ice. With waves attacking the shore and eroding away the glacial deposits, sand was transported and redeposited to form bays protected by barrier splits and islands. Within these bays, marshes grew as the sea rose, and the remaining glacial landforms make up the landscape of the Cape that we know today.

It would be given the name of Cape Cod by Bartholomew Gosnold in 1602 when he settled on the Elizabeth Islands, southwest of what is known as Woods Hole now. Visited by Samuel de Champlain in 1605, the Cape was detailed in description and charts which would help present day scientists to determine the rate of change the land of Nauset Beach Spit and Nauset marsh had made over the years. The Cape would also be the first landing spot of the Pilgrims before they chose to abandon it for more fertile and less sandy lands. Although it had potable water and food, it would not sustain them and they chose to resettle across the bay in 1620 on more stable shores, calling their settlement Plymouth. There were other Europeans who had settled along the shores dating back as far as 1498, but none would be more successful than the Pilgrims and the treaties they established with the Nauset Indians (in 1621) for forty years.

Early settlers to Cape Cod were from deforested lands of Europe and took full advantage of the forests of the Cape for fuel, housing and shipbuilding. Unlike the rest of New England, and because the forests were never really that big, the thin sandy soil was extremely vulnerable to wind erosion. An abundant amount of clearing and topsoil loss occurred over the years, and by the early 1800's, laws had to be enacted to protect what grazing land was left. It would also promote the planting of beach grasses. From the mid 1800's till 1951 over 70% of the land was forested, yet the trend reversed itself again, and residential as well as commercial development, in recent times, has decreased the forests by 100 square miles (about 25% of the Cape).

My first memories of the Cape date back to the 1960's when we would spend our summers there with our cousins. It would be at a cottage my Grandfather had nailed together out of two cranberry shacks (at least that was the legend I was always told), and was located just minutes from the beach. It is no secret that I am a beach lover, and always have been, so jaunts down to the shoreline were a morning daily event for us all summer long.... except for Sunday when we had to attend church first.

This was where I would learn to dig for clams and accept the risk of coming home with bleeding fingers at the razor-sharp shells. We had to be careful though, as we never had a license to take them off the beach. Hiding them in our pails we'd sneak off through a back route home and deposit them into Grandmas kitchen over expressed glees of what good catches we had. It really never amounted to much, and most times Grandpa would catch a ride to the nearest fishery to supplement our meager findings. Being of Italian decent, Grandma would put just about anything and everything into a marinara sauce, as pasta was a daily staple with every noonday meal. Many times there were sauces that included our daily catch.

Needless to say, mealtime was a required event, as Grandma spent time from the moment she woke up till serving time over the hot stove in her kitchen. While we were flapping and rollicking around the beach or huge yard to play in, with boundless energy, she would be preparing a feast for six adults and eight children. Being of fair skin, she had to be careful of any sun exposure so she never joined us at the beach. That was never a problem for the rest of us as we had "olive" skin, and could stand the hours outside bolstering our already tanned skin.

When we became old enough to drive, we would cross the bridges that separated the mainland of Massachusetts by a canal to the actual Cape lands. Our little town of Wareham was known as the "gateway to the Cape", but technically, "not on The Cape". The Bourne and Sagamore Bridges would bring us to less populated areas, real funny looking scrub pines, and even better beaches. Day trips to Falmouth and even the tip of Provencetown to see the dunes, grassy marshes, and quaint towns along the way were fascinating and filled with picturesque landscapes. The Cape was always our second home, no matter where we lived. It is the one home that has remained in my family our whole life.

When my Grandparents became too old to maintain the cottage by themselves, they deeded it over to my brothers and myself for care, and it has remained that way for the last twenty years. I don't spend time there anymore as the distance is too far for me to pop in for a weekend. However, I still think about it often and wonder about the changes I hear about. The road that lead down to our cottage used to be mostly forest and marshland, and it remained that way throughout all my childhood as well as most of my adulthood. I've heard that it is all subdivisions and condos now.... nothing I'd recognize if I were make the trek on my own. In a way I find it somewhat sad now, because my Grandpa used to walk this road and search the woods for fresh mushrooms. He knew the difference between the poisonous and harmless ones, and they ended up in the food that Grandma prepared. Like my Grandparents and my parents, the mushrooms and little country road have passed through the annals of time. The little cottage still remains, and amazingly enough, it has held up through several hurricanes; although.... it's age is showing.

It's been eight years since I've last seen the Cape, my second home, and the gateway town I spent my summers in. I can hardly believe that so much time has passed, and it makes me realize that I do miss the area terribly. So much so, that I wonder if I'll recognize anything whenever I do get the chance to return for a vacation........

17 Comments:

Blogger Snaggle Tooth said...

Well I recognize the pix of the Bourne Bridge in front of the famous C.C. Railroad Bridge (which rises up out of the way of large canal vessels coming through, n down for the trains).
In the daytime pic Main Street in Buzzards Bay village n Taylor's Point, where Mass Maritime Academy is located is visable.
Nice pics n history lesson, haven't thought about that in awhile, so very glacial, too!

12:42 AM  
Blogger Snaggle Tooth said...

Just thought to add -that the original forests here were mainly mature Spruce n Elm forests, which were clear-cut for the lumber - n never grew back. Now forests are just scrub pine, common Maple n Oak desiduous trees.

12:48 AM  
Blogger Ellen said...

snaggle~
I thought you might recognize the Bourne. I found these on the web, and they were the prettiest shots, besides one I found of the Wellfleet windmill.

We never saw the bridge coming from CT, but it was the sigh of relief "we were finally there" when coming from NH. If memory serves me right, isn't the water tower on the other end of Wareham?

I went to a tree nursury this weekend and saw a few dwarf pines (or what we used to call scrub pines) and pointed them out to hubby. He's only been to the Cape once, over 18 years ago, and didn't remember the trees so common to the Cape.

5:55 PM  
Blogger X said...

That's sad to hear about the development near the cottage....but at least you still have your memories!

I was hoping to head down to Boston this summer and was thinking to swing by the cape. It looks so beautiful! :)

7:05 PM  
Blogger Ellen said...

K~
What a terrific idea to head over to the Cape if you are in the area.. it is only about an hour south of Boston.
I promise that you will enjoy yourself immensely!

8:26 PM  
Blogger Snaggle Tooth said...

There's a water tower off 495 in West-Wareham, n another off the Rt6-28 bypass in Buzzards bay.

When ya go over the Bourne Bridge there's now a cheezy bit of land-scaped bushes at the Bourne Rotary spelling "Cape Cod",

but really, the "Gateway" is geographically on the penninsula, but cut-ff from the rest of it by the man-made Canal, not nature.

2:34 AM  
Blogger Neo said...

Ellen - Ya know, you'd have been one hell of a history teacher!

Sounds like a sweet spot. Maybe I'll get the chance to check it out up there in one of my journeys.

Peace & Hugs,

- Neo

5:18 AM  
Blogger Ellen said...

snaggle~
My nephew took a trip down to the Cape this past summer and posted a picture of the Bourne rotary spelling out the "welcome". He kind of made fun of it and said: "Like I didn't know where I was, they needed to spell it out for me".

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neo~
Like I said to K, it's well worth the visit. But then, I should take my own advise on that!

I'm not sure if I'd be a good history teacher, but I've always found it fascinating. I'm not one to wonder what's the meaning of life, as much as I am wondering how and why we made it so far.

7:01 AM  
Blogger Harlyn said...

you should go back and see it ellen. My grandparents also owned a cottage in Cape Cod..in e or w dennis...can't remember. I went many times as a kid on my trips to CT from FL. I always had a great time. They sold it a few years back though...too bad.

10:34 AM  
Blogger Milk Brain said...

i get to go to the cape only a couple times a year and often we get off the highway in west wareham for 2 reasons... 1. we're sick of teh highway, and 2. it just amazes me all the changes that are made each time i go... it's not the same town i grew up in even just 20 years ago... onset still has it's small town charm after onset ave got rehabed back in the early 90's... and if you get a chance go to the "cup of the bay" coffeeshop in onset center or their new on on cranberry highway... best coffee ever!

2:36 PM  
Blogger Ellen said...

citysoul~
I keep thinking that I'll make it up there every year, but things come up, and finances are low. My nephew is getting married in Sept, and I'd like to make the trip up then... time will tell at this point. I need to get through tax season first. (YUCK!)

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MB~
We'd always get off in W. Wareham, too. I remember there being a sign that said "gateway".... is it still there? I kind of remember an old folks home near there, just before you got to a big church on a street to the right. God... it's been so many years!!
We also went to a Catholic Church way out in the woods... little bitty thing and very rustic. One of my brothers got married there back in 1980. I can't remember the name now though.

5:36 PM  
Blogger Ellen said...

citysoul~
I don't know what the problem is, but I am having a hard time getting to your comment section.
I can read you posts, but for some reason blogger won't let me into your comments. ?????
Hope all is well with you!

5:52 PM  
Blogger Saur♥Kraut said...

You know, I've never been up there and have always wanted to go. What beautiful memories you paint here! It somehow reminds me of The Shell Seekers by Rosemunde Pilcher (an excellent book). It has the same evocative feel.

6:03 PM  
Blogger Ellen said...

saurkraut~
I read The Shell Seekers a long time ago... I think when it first came out. The name grabbed me, and the story had me hooked.

You would love the Cape seashore!
The rocks and sand are so different from the FLA coast.
My son and I went one year alone to the cottage (when he was still pretty little) and we dragged home some cool shells and rocks and built a small garden out of them. Sadly, the garden was never maintained, and I'm not sure what ever happened to it.

8:29 PM  
Blogger Milk Brain said...

the infamous gateway signs and lighthouses are still there locatedin front of the police station.... nursing home is still there... that part of town is pretty much the same, but some areas of west and east wareham are totally transformed!

10:14 PM  
Blogger Lee Ann said...

Wow, those are gorgeous pictures and great memories.

Just wanted to also say You are a great friend, thanks for the encouragement!

10:48 PM  
Blogger Ellen said...

MB~
That's right, I forgot about the lighthouses that accompanied the sign. The name of the little church still has me befuddled. I'll have to make a phone call to my brother, as it going to bother me all day until I remember the name.

********************

lee ann~

Thanks, sweetie. You just keep rocking with the gym, and we'll all be there to cheer you on. You are far better than me to join and keep up with it, as I am like Saur... just too lazy to get into a regimen to do it for myself.

7:32 AM  

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